Baden-Baden: Germany’s most ‘Russian’ city
Published 09 June, 2008, 05:06
Germany’s spa resort of Baden-Baden has a distinctly Russian edge. Favoured by Russian writers and aristocracy, it now has a large community of Russian emigrants and has recently regained popularity among rich tourists from Russia.
It started in the 18th century, when the Russian tsar, Alexander I married a young princess from Baden-Baden. The new Tsarina was homesick and often visited her native town. She paved the way for the Russian aristocracy, who discovered a new place to take their leisure.
Russian writers Ivan Turgenev and Fyodor Dostoevsky once lived in Baden-Baden and are still fondly remembered there.
“Our goal is to create a Russian cultural centre in our town. As you know Turgenev and Dostoevsky lived here, however we have no museums for them. It’s a bit hard to draw German and Russian people together but they have so much to share. Culture and art have to be the main connecting link between them,” says Renate Effern, Chairperson of the Turgenev society of Baden-Baden.
Today Baden-Baden attracts thousands of Russian tourists. The renewed tradition of Russian-style balls also contributes to its growing popularity. Economic and cultural ties between the two countries are becoming stronger, and city officials say they are keen to encourage more Russian tourists.
Officially there are no Russian nationals permanently living in Germany. Those who are known as Russians are actually ethnic Germans or Jews who emigrated from former Soviet republics or modern Russia. There are around 3 million of them. One of the main obstacles for these people to integrate and find a job is the German language – the reason why many feel overlooked and even alien in the country.
Older people find it the hardest, for the younger generation it’s easier. For example Alla, a shop assistant in one of the town’s designer boutiques, came to Baden-Baden 15 years ago. She says she feels very comfortable in the new place. It is the local Jewish community that helped her and her husband settle, find German friends and a job. With all that came ultimately perfect German.
“Those who don’t find a job simply don’t want to work, because there’s always something on offer. I don’t understand those who always complain about life here,” Alla says.
Herman Andreev has a different story. He used to be close to a circle of dissidents’ in the Soviet Union 30 years ago. He was forced to leave in the 70s.
For 25 years he taught history of Russia in several German universities, remaining an active participant of Germany’s public and political life. Nowadays his children and grandchildren are in Russia. He publishes books there and is able to visit the country any time he wants. He says three decades ago, one of the dissidents’ demands was a right for people to move freely from the Soviet Union and back. He sees now more freedom in Russia.
“If I were 60 years younger, I would consider Putin’s offer to return to Russia, even though I think some processes taking place there are dangerous. But it’s still much better now than it was in Soviet times,” the Professor said.
A stroll across Baden-Baden reveals numorous Russian traces. It’s the Orthodoz Church locals simply call the Russian Church. And also the Fest Shpil House proud to host the world famous St. Petersburg’s Mariinsky symphony orchestra, which performs there once a year. Tickets are sold out months before the event, showing that Russian culture is in great demand in this part of the world.
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