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Once upon a time in Russia...
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Oleg Dmitriev's column
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01 November, 2009, 19:00 Where the streets have the names
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The beginning of November for me is associated with the 1917 Russian Revolution. As a child born into a family with diverse political views, I always question lots of stuff from the history of my country.
For example, I was always puzzled with the revolutionary “Newspeak” – with the words and the names that flooded the towns and villages in almost every town in the former USSR. I kept asking: “Is it really necessary to name the streets after Lenin or after the Red Army?
That was not necessary, of course, but that was the order of the authorities to keep the uniformity “on the long road to Communism”. In 1991, the USSR collapsed and, surprisingly, I was not a fan of changing the names of the streets and cities back. Because to lose them now will mean saying goodbye to the period of long and remarkable history which, after all, was not always that bad.
So, for your reading enjoyment, I decided to make up a list of the top 10 Communist names of streets.
1. Lenin Street. As one of my American friends says: “It’s easy to find the center of a Russian city. Just ask where the Lenin Street is.” And he is 90% right. Lenin Street or Lenin Square is almost always in the center of the town. If it is not there – it is definitely one of the main highways leading to it. One example is Leninsky Prospekt (“Lenin Avenue”) in Moscow. It all happened right after Vladimir Lenin’s death – the Central Party Committee issued a decree to commemorate the leader in the names of cities and towns. But in his life – in spite of the many tragic deeds Lenin committed – he was not a person to expose himself. In many moments he kept a very low profile due to all the party organization work he was doing.
2. Karl Marx Street. Of course you can’t fail in remembering the guy who managed to see the “ghost of communism” way back in the middle of the 19th century. Again – like in the case with Lenin – it is in the center of the city. In some towns it is a place for local theatres and post offices.
3. Engels Street. Friedrich Engels was a long-time associate of Karl Marx. And that’s the reason you can seldom find this street in the center. Usually it was located in the working class suburbs.
4. Oktyabrskaya Street (October Street). According to the old calendar the 1917 Revolution took place in October – hence the name. It is the street of sports venues, banks and schools. In some cities, Oktyabrskaya is the place of monuments to prominent revolutionaries and associates of Lenin.
5. Sovetskaya Street. The word “sovet” means “council” in Russian. It means councils of workers and peasants that were supposed to rule the country. In fact – they never did. The Communist Party grabbed hold of the power and never let it go. Maybe that’s the reason that you can seldom find this street in the center of the town.
6. Krasnoarmeyskaya (“Red Army”) or Krasnogvardeyskaya (“Red Guard”) street. One of the few names that cause debates. In many cases, the Red Army is the good example of bravery and military craft. But I do not understand why in five cities in various parts of the country Red Army Street leads to local detention centers – city prisons. I hope it’s just a coincidence.
7. Kommunisticheskaya Street (the street of Communism). The name showed the ultimate goal for the whole USSR. In Moscow there were two streets like this – Big Kommunisticheskaya and Small Kommunisticheskaya. The small one was renamed in 2005 after Stanislavsky – the founder of the modern Russian theatre. The big one still keeps the name, but Moscow authorities plan to change it soon. In one small town the authorities overdid it slightly. They called the street that leads nowhere Kommunisticheskiy Tupik (Communist Deadend). It immediately became the subject of many jokes.
8. Komsomolskaya (Komsomol) Street. It commemorates the Youth Communist League. Tradtionally, it is the place for colleges, universities and schools. In some cities in Komsomolskaya you can find houses for young families.
9. Pionerskaya Street. It is named after the communist children organization. This street is the place of schools and children libraries.
10. 7 Noyabrya Street (The Seventh of November street). It commemorates the date the 1917 Revolution took place (on the ninth according to Julian calendar). I was born on this street in my hometown of Oryol. And my parents still enjoy their life there.
I will come back to some other remarkable examples in the names of Russian streets and cities (not just Communist) in one of my next columns.
07 October, 2009, 20:49 Krasnoyarsk. Siberian Rugby.
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I like to watch rugby. It’s been 13 years since the moment I saw the game for the first time. And that was in the place which is famous for cold winters and vast forests – in Siberia!
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A few words on how rugby got that far: the game was brought to the Russian empire at the beginning of the 20th century by ship. English sailors used to teach youngsters how to play it in Odessa – a port on the Black Sea coast (it’s in Ukraine now). And the game immediately became one of the favorite pastimes of local students, along with soccer.
But in 1949 – at the start of the Cold War – the game was banned. Authorities proclaimed that the game “teaches imperialist values in the Communist society and has nothing to do with the Soviet way of life”. So when the fans came to see the game at the Moscow stadium, they could not believe that the game was cancelled. Later on rugby, as a sport, would fall into oblivion for the whole decade. For some mysterious reason, football, hockey and basketball escaped the “purge”.
The game was brought back in 1957 – during the World Students’ Festival. Thousands flocked to a small stadium on the outskirts of Moscow to watch the international rugby tournament. Students and teachers were so fascinated with the game that they started to spread it throughout the country. And one such “Russian rugby fan” brought the game to Krasnoyarsk – an industrial centre in Siberia.
The city was packed with technical colleges and they all absorbed the game. As a result, this English game became the number one sport in this Siberian city – even more popular than soccer. Five thousand young boys played rugby in the city of 600 thousand. Since the 1990s, local businesses began to support their own teams. Now in the Top Russian League, out of eight squads – four are from Krasnoyarsk. And usually one of them makes it to the Championship finals. This year is not an exception.
The game I saw in Krasnoyarsk was a final of the international tournament. The teams from Russia and Poland were fighting hard. But the quality of the game, according to the experts I was with, did not suffer. That’s what had me fascinated.
In Krasnoyarsk they play rugby all year round – even in the snow. It’s something that many rugby stars wouldn’t be able to do. No wonder that some players from the city of Krasnoyarsk do well in big western clubs. And I wish that our Siberian guys would have a chance to play at the World Cup someday.
Go, Siberia!!! Go!!!!!!
09 September, 2009, 20:25 Not far from Moscow: One flew over the “Cuckoo’s Nest”
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Warm days are fading away. And all you want is to get the last portion of it in full swing. I know such a place where you can really get lost in the past and enjoy nature. But you’ll derive pleasure from it only if you love history and like trains. So go to the “Cuckoo Museum” near the city of Pereslavl.
Cuckoo (in Russian – Kukushka) is a small steam locomotive used in narrow-gauge industrial railway. Its whistle sounds like a bird, so that’s why they called it that. There – in the forests and swamps of Mother Russia - people worked really hard collecting turf. It was widely used in Russia as fuel for electric power plants as well as fertilizer on collective farms. And the Cuckoo train was the only kind of transport to bring the turf out. Later on it was reloaded onto larger trains.
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This narrow-gauge rail blossomed until the end of the 1980s when the planned economy went down the drain. The place immediately became almost empty. Nothing was happening there until a group of young entrepreneurs decided to buy the site from the bankrupt company. So they started to bring all the Cuckoo trains here from various locations to set up an open-air museum. They even brought one train from the South of Russia. I still can’t believe how it was possible to place the steamer on the huge truck and drive it for 2,000 miles!!!
The first thing you see when you come to the museum is a small railway station in the 1930’s style. You immediately become mesmerized, seeing all these old-fashioned radios, uniforms of railway workers, all the important accessories to keep all these Cuckoos going. You have a chance to explore these locomotives and railway cars. Half an hour – and then you feel that the sense of reality is being transformed into some fairy tale in the middle of the Russian forest where your job is to be the boss of all these trains. There is even a sedan on railway wheels for the bosses.
But the moment of ultimate pleasure comes when you go along the rails yourself to the turf sites using a handcar. Fifteen minutes on the rails in the forest and you seem to appreciate the hard work these people were doing to heat the country in 1930s.
There are other exhibits of the past – trucks and motorcycles that add up to a feeling of time travel. So when in Russia – don’t forget to say “hello” to Cuckoo trains to get a better idea of the country. Just ask your Russian friends to help you with directions at www.kukushka.ru (unfortunately, it’s only in Russian) and make this unforgettable journey. This is what I keep doing every summer!!!
About author
Oleg Dmitriev is a Training Director with RT and a Professor at Moscow State Linguistic University. Prior to RT he has done a great number of projects with Russian journalists in the regions – from Kaliningrad in the west to Vladivostok in the Far East. He shares the unforgettable moments of his trips with RT readers.
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